Shields to Gardiner
Day 1
LIVINGSTON, DAY TO NIGHT
Spend the day in Livingston, a welcoming mountain town that marks the northern end of the famed Paradise Valley. Long a hub for artists and outdoor enthusiasts, Livingston exudes turn-of-the-century charm—with several Old West downtown buildings that date to the 1880s and ’90s—and offers plentiful opportunities to experience arts and culture, history, incredible outdoor recreation and a noteworthy restaurant and bar scene.
Start the morning with breakfast at French-inspired Tru North Cafe, where everything is made to order and the beverage creations are nothing less than artistic. Then explore downtown, with its brick storefronts and vintage neon signs. Appropriate for an area that’s home to quite a few artists (as well as writers and well-known actors), you’ll find more than a dozen art galleries. If history is more your thing, be sure to check out the Yellowstone Gateway Museum and the Livingston Depot Center, a grand 1902 train depot that features railroad-related museum exhibits during the summer.
After lunch at Los Pinos, Gil’s Goods or—if it’s a Thursday, Friday or Saturday—the Mint Bar and Grill, continue your exploration of Livingston or venture out on a fishing, horseback riding or rafting trip with an outfitter. If you’re in town July 2, 3 or 4, don’t miss the Livingston Roundup Rodeo, the premier rodeo in Montana. For dinner, head to Campione, an Italian spot that features local proteins, pastas, seasonal vegetable dishes and fresh-baked goods. In September 2023, the eatery, housed in a historic Main Street building, was included in the New York Times’ list of its 50 favorite U.S. restaurants. And speaking of favorites, follow up your meal with a stay at the historic Murray Hotel—one of the late Anthony Bourdain’s top 10 favorite hotels in the world: He recommended the Peckinpah Suite.
Day 2
SCENIC SHIELDS VALLEY
Have breakfast in Livingston at Pinky’s Cafe—a regular haunt of local artists and writers—or Faye’s Cafe, where the staff will create a meal to suit what you’re in the mood for. Then head north on Highway 89 toward the town of Wilsall. When you cross I-90, you’ll enter the picturesque Shields Valley, which winds among three mountain ranges: the Absaroka, Bridger and Crazy mountains. Take a guided fishing trip (booked through Guide Time or with Montana Hunting and Fishing Outfitters) to cast a line on the Shields River, where trout are plentiful. Afterward, check out the Wilsall General Store for Made in Montana goods and Western accessories and enjoy lunch at the Bank Bar and Vault Restaurant, which serves locally raised grass-fed beef. Take your time on the way back to Livingston to soak up the scenery and explore: Pop into Antlers Bar in Clyde Park—“the best little bar in Montana”—for a drink and be sure to stop at the Valley Farmers Market in Shields if you’re traveling on a Monday from mid-June to late August.
HIKING IN PINE CREEK
Head south on Hwy. 89 past Livingston into the stunning Paradise Valley, where the Yellowstone River runs along the broad valley floor with the Absaroka Mountains to the east and the Gallatin Mountains to the west. After approximately 10 miles, you’ll reach Pine Creek. Turn left on Pine Creek Road, right on East River Road, then left on Luccock Park Road to reach Pine Creek Campground and the trailhead for a beautiful 2.5-mile roundtrip hike to Pine Creek Falls. If you’re looking for a more challenging hike (approx 10 miles roundtrip), continue another 4 miles on the trail, which climbs 3,000 feet to reach Pine Creek Lake, a breathtaking mountain lake nestled in a sheer rock cirque.
OVERNIGHT AT CHICO HOT SPRINGS
Continue south on Hwy. 89 to Chico Hot Springs in Pray. This four-season hot springs resort is a Montana institution—it’s welcomed locals and visitors since it opened in 1900. Today, Chico invites guests to enjoy not just the two open-air mineral hot springs pools, but also enticing dining options and a variety of memorable accommodations that range from charming rooms in the original inn to Conestoga covered wagons tastefully designed to sleep up to four. Depending on the time of your arrival, drop your bags and head to the pools for a pre-dinner soak—you can order an accompanying beverage at the convenient walk-up poolside window. If it’s already dinnertime, take a seat in the historic dining room, where you’ll find an award-winning wine list with delectable options to complement anything you order from the menu of modern American dishes—steak, seafood flown in fresh, or the tempting house-made desserts, like the signature Flaming Orange. On weekends, there’s live music in the Chico Saloon—a fun, toe-tapping way to end the day.
Day 3
RISE AND SHINE AT CHICO HOT SPRINGS
Awake from your slumber—whether in a lodge guest room, a cabin or a train caboose turned guest suite—and then decide which will come first: a dip in the hot-spring-fed pool or the continental buffet breakfast (or brunch if it’s Sunday). Rest assured there’s no wrong choice—there are only relaxing and delicious options.
PETRIFIED FOREST
Bid farewell to Chico Hot Springs, and if it’s a Saturday, from late June to early October, don’t miss the Emigrant Peoples Market in nearby Emigrant. Then make your way south on Hwy. 89 to the Tom Miner Basin (west of the highway), where you’ll find the Gallatin Petrified Forest Interpretive Trail. The hike to the petrified forest starts at the Tom Miner trailhead, which lies at the end of an 11-mile drive on the gravel Tom Miner Road. About a ⅓ to ½ mile from the trailhead, you’ll see the start of the Gallatin Petrified Forest Interpretive Trail, a short, educational trail with stunning views and the opportunity to see natural treasures like amethyst, opal and rose quartz in addition to petrified wood. If you really want to make a day of it, backtrack to the main trail and then take it to Ramshorn Peak—about an 8.5-mile roundtrip hike to the summit (and its panoramic views of Paradise Valley) and back. Wildlife sightings are not uncommon; you may spot bighorn sheep or even a grizzly, so be sure to keep your distance, carry bear spray, and know how to use it.
POST-HIKE HOT SPRINGS AND GARDINER OVERNIGHT
Once back on Hwy. 89, head south to the town of Corwin Springs, where you can nip any hiking soreness in the bud with a relaxing soak in the mineral-rich waters of Yellowstone Hot Springs. Alternate between the 102-degree main pool or 104-degree hot plunge and the 60- to 65-degree cold plunge, all against the breathtaking backdrop of the Yellowstone River coursing through Paradise Valley. When it’s time to towel off and leave this slice of paradise, set your sights on Gardiner, just 7.5 miles south on Hwy. 89. Gardiner is home to the Northeast Entrance—the original entrance—of Yellowstone National Park, marked by the iconic Roosevelt Arch. It’s a community used to welcoming visitors—especially ones who have been adventuring all day and are looking for a delicious meal and a great night’s sleep. For dinner with a side of rustic ambiance, consider the Iron Horse Bar & Grill; for a more refined touch, try the charming Wonderland Cafe—which also has a lodge featuring a range of well-appointed accommodations. Cowboy’s Lodge and Grill serves up a great bison burger and comfortable lodging, too. You'll certainly be cozy at Absaroka Lodge, Park Hotel Yellowstone, Yellowstone Riverside Cottages, and the Roosevelt Hotel as well. Wherever you choose to stay, you’ll be in prime position to pass through the Roosevelt Arch and begin your exploration of Yellowstone National Park’s wonders in the morning.
